How to repair the drainage pump do it yourself: review of frequent breakdowns
Drainage pump on a country site - a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles the equipment for the supply of drinking water, but has the ability to move contaminated environments with large inclusions.
We will try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out whether it is possible to repair the drainage pump with your own hands if necessary.
Typical drainage device
The ability to pump water with small gravel, a large inclusion of sand, organic residues - a very useful quality when you need to pump out the water after flooding or drain the pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but excess load often leads to breakdowns.
It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase, in order to understand which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakage.To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - just examine the circuit that is attached to the instructions for connecting and servicing the device.
Devices for private use in the suburban areas do not differ a lot of power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household items.
The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit pumping water and an electric motor rotating a shaft with blades. The engine is located inside a sturdy casing, which is made of stainless steel or of reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.
Modern models are equipped with thermal protection, triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that feeds the fluid into the body. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, take water outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The next one comes to replace the first portion of water - and so on until the mechanism stops.
Adjusts the frequency of operation of the float switch. It monitors the level of liquid in a tank or a natural pond, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.
As you can see, the device of the drainage pump is quite simple, and if you ever dismantled and cleaned the submersible well pump,then cope with this category of equipment. The faecal aggregate is slightly different, having an additional node for grinding too large particles.
Differences immersion and surface models
The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well just put into operation. The first fluid accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay. During the day, it is necessary to pump the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.
Unlike a submersible one, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks, it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement — when it is flooded. At the bottom of the tank is placed a hose for receiving dirty water, the second hose is used for drainage.
If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise.Plus the fact that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).
It is clear that the surface-type aggregate differs in its structure. Inside the metal case, the working shaft and the wheel are fixed, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming - asynchronous two-pole.
Despite the contamination of the transfer medium, you should not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other petroleum products and chemicals are dissolved.
Causes of Drainage Pump Damage
Both the new equipment and the one that has served for more than one year can break. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect that was made during assembly: a damaged piston or an improperly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to poor installation, if:
- lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;
- allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;
- the water inlet is above water and not covered with liquid.
These shortcomings are easy to correct with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.
Most often problems arise in the course of equipment operation. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are stated in the product data sheet). If the equipment is used improperly, not as intended, it simply will not sustain the load.
For example, it is normal for a drainage apparatus to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you begin to move clean drinking water (for which well and well models are intended). On the contrary, too large contaminants clog the filters, as a result of which the pump is suspended.
Also, the troubles are expected if the equipment is idling, in the “dry” mode - overheating is sure to happen, which cannot always be corrected by yourself. As a result of an oversight, business can end with expensive service repairs.
The lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause damage.Many troubles can be avoided by warning them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.
Faults and solutions
There are a number of opportunities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning). To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make a diagnosis, identify the problem and pick up an identical part.
Available actions include replacing a condenser, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the case.
If the cast-iron case has cracked, the valve has failed, or the winding has ceased to function, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Cheap Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering a serious professional repair is impractical.
# 1: Power cord out of order
The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk because, due to regular twisting and kinking (which often happens during transportation and re-installation of equipment), wires under a layer of plastic or rubberized protection are broken, causing the pump to stop powering.
It is necessary to find the place of the gap and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if the breakage occurred near the plug — you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully isolating the place of work.
Breaking the cable in the connection zone to the pump requires more time to be repaired.First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble to get to the indoor unit connection. Prepare for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple holes, which is why it will be difficult to choose a screwdriver.
The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking and effort. Having unscrewed the bolts holding the tensioning element, you will be able to examine the cable and determine the section of the break. We remove the worn-out piece, install the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.
# 2: Water shut off
The engine is working properly, however, the fluid either stopped flowing altogether or comes in small irregular jerks. The reasons for the strange phenomenon can be several:
- Part of the flow line is blocked.This is an outlet or supply pipe. There was a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the length of the pipe is longer than recommended by the manufacturer, and therefore there is not enough pressure for the pressure of the required power.
- Worn impeller.Curved or damaged blades.It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace the parts, to start visually (as far as possible), having determined the cause of the malfunction.
- The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris.Therefore, water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction inlet at some distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.
- Markedly reduced engine power.What can be determined even by sound. There may be problems in the supply of electricity, the failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment. The case must be disassembled to clarify the cause of the breakdown and to replace worn parts.
The most common problem is clogged filter. To clean the mesh and the suction inlet, you can try to pump some clean water through the pump. If this procedure does not help, you should disassemble the case and clean all the cameras by removing pebbles, algae and chips.
When disassembling the unit, be sure to use diagrams or manufacturer's instructions. They will help to consistently remove the parts, quickly find the place of attachment of bolts. In some cases, the wear of fasteners or loosening of the nuts causes the parts to shift, which also affects the performance of the machine.
# 3: Engine does not start
You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Get ready to have to inspect all the equipment. Here are the most common causes of engine failure:
- Electricity failure due to wire breakage.Check the cable to the touch and find the place of the gap. If the emergency area in the zone of connection to the pump - proceed as described above.
- The stator winding has failed.It happens because of the work "dry". If you cannot replace yourself, contact a specialist.
- Bearing jammed. We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or change it.
- Suction device clogged with debris.We make cleaning of blades and grids, check the integrity of existing elements and the grid.
- Broken float switch.To test its operation, it is necessary to close the relay. Perhaps a problem in the wire connecting the float to the pump.
If the capacitor has failed, it needs to be replaced. In some models, it has a special access, which is a separate hole in the case.
# 4: Pump turns off by itself
When you turn on the pump in the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it spontaneously stops. Most likely, the protective mechanism works due to overheating of the engine.
Perhaps the cause is a heating cable. It is worth checking the compliance of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.
Disconnection may occur due to clogging blades with debris.In this case, we recommend performing a complete cleaning procedure, that is, opening the case, cleaning the inner chambers and the impeller, and checking the filter.
If blockages occur quite often, re-read the instructions to the product to clarify the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of garbage - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding
# 5: Turning the pump on knocks out the electrics
When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or the wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - cable or stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked with a tester, if a worn area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shortened.
Repair winding - time-consuming and requires special knowledge. Even with a carefully conducted secondary winding is not excluded short circuit. If you have no time to mess around with a burnt part, take the device to a service center - perhaps after the diagnosis you will be advised to buy a new pump.
Preventive measures and regular maintenance
As you can see, the inevitable wear and violation of the equipment operation rules can cause the wear of parts. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the casing so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not catch particles of a large fraction.
At least once a year, check that the cable and internal parts are in good condition by disassembling the case as far as possible. Carry out preventive cleaning, which will increase the service life of parts several times. Do not confuse the drainage device with the fecal one - it does not have a special shredder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Videos from craftsmen will help you to organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and to troubleshoot yourself.
Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode:
Features of repair of the pump Pedrollo:
How to fix the drainage pump Whirl:
Disassembly of the pump Praktika DNG-400:
Repairing a drainage pump with your own hands is quite possible and desirable if it is enough to repair or replace a spare part for repair. Difficult emergency cases - a rupture of the housing or a rotating shaft - are not subject to independent repair. Solving serious problems should be entrusted to specialists, and if replacement is not appropriate, then buy a new pump.