DIY painting the bath using epoxy enamel and liquid acrylic
Spoiled bath - a phenomenon quite ordinary. As time goes by, chips appear on the enamel surface, dirt, even rust stains. Complete replacement of such plumbing - the task troublesome and expensive. Much cheaper will cost painting a bath with your own hands.
You can do this work with epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic.
Restoring the bath cover is not an easy task. It will take several days to complete the entire work, and possibly several weeks. In addition to tools and materials you need to prepare a set of clothing and protective equipment. Repair composition has an unpleasant odor and in the process of drying it releases hazardous volatile substances.
It is necessary to protect the respiratory organs with a respirator with a high class of protection. Alternatively, you can use any model of gas mask. Those who have sensitive eyes, do not even put a good protective glasses.
To restore the bath cover, it is necessary to do a number of operations:
- Free the bathroom from all things that can be endured.
- Close all stationary plumbing with a protective film and carefully fix the coating with adhesive tape or masking tape.
- Sand the surface of the old enamel to remove dirt and give the base a uniform roughness.
- If necessary, restore deep damage to the surface.
- Dust off the cleaned surface and degrease it.
- Apply a layer of enamel or acrylic.
- Wait for the restored surface to dry.
In the process of work it is necessary to dismantle the piping drain and overflow. But you will have to fill the bath with water, so you will need to connect the bath to the sewage system and then turn it off again several times. It is impossible to use the bathroom during the repair, so that pollution does not accidentally hit the surface. This rule is relevant at almost all stages of repair.
Due to the strong odor during drying of the repaired surface, it is recommended to ventilate the room intensively. It is not only about the bathroom, but also about the whole apartment or house. Therefore, it is better to resettle family members at the time of repair: to the country, to friends, on vacation, etc.
Not an easy choice: enamel or acrylic?
These materials differ in composition, and method of preparation, and application technology. Epoxy-based enamel has been known for longer: it has been used for about two decades, respectively, and there are fewer “pitfalls” in working with this composition. Liquid acrylic is new to the construction market, but it already has some ardent fans.
Acrylic composition is more difficult to prepare for application, but the repair process itself is relatively simple. First, the ratio of the acrylic base and the liquid hardener must be precisely observed. The consistency of these components is very different, so the mixing process can be difficult.
Epoxy enamel is the opposite. It is not so demanding on the exact observance of proportions, the presence of special substances that can improve the quality of the coating is allowed. But the process of surface treatment requires a more careful approach.
It is worth considering that acrylic compounds are usually more expensive than epoxy enamels. Experienced masters recommend beginners in the restoration of baths to opt for acrylic. It is better to work with an epoxy compound for those who already have experience using enamels.
In any case, when preparing the repair composition, the instructions of the manufacturer should be strictly followed, since this is an important point that will necessarily affect the final result of the repair work. If the repair technology is observed at every stage, then the new coating, both enamel and acrylic, will last for about two decades.
The processes of applying acrylic and epoxy enamel have similar and different stages. Consider the example of pouring acrylic composition to understand the essence of the action.
After completing the full range of preparatory work, we proceed to the application of acrylic enamel on the plumbing surface.
Preparation of the base for repair
Proper preparation of the bath surface for restoration is one of the most important moments of this process. Even small, imperceptible blemishes at this stage can negatively affect the final result. During the preparation it is necessary to solve the following tasks:
- remove dirt, rust, etc. from the bath;
- to give the surface a uniform fine roughness;
- to clear the basis of the appeared dust;
- completely degrease the surface.
Thermal deformation is the main cause of violation of the integrity of the finished coating. These processes occur during the drying of the coating due to the difference in size of asperities,created on the surface of the substrate during pretreatment.
Removal of impurities from the surface of the bath is performed with the help of active detergents. “Pemolux”, powdered oxalic acid or other similar means will do. The powder is poured on the bottom of the bath and a small amount of water is added to it to make a paste-like composition.
Using a sponge or brush, this slur is spread over the surface of the bath and left for about 10-15 minutes. It is best to use a new sponge, because the old may remain minor fatty contaminants, which will complicate the preparation of the surface.
After that, the cleaning composition should be washed off the walls of the bath, and fill it to the brim with hot water. Water is left for another 15-20 minutes, and then lowered it into the sewer. When working with a cleaning agent, the bathroom should be ventilated, and the skin and airways should be protected by individual means.
This advice is especially relevant if oxalic acid or another dangerous agent is used as a cleaner. After that, you can start cleaning the surface with abrasives. Traditionally, rust and stains remove large sandpaper, and then apply the treatment with smaller abrasives.
So cleaning the surface is faster and more efficient, but this is the wrong way when working with bath enamels. With this method of processing, irregularities of different sizes are formed on the surface, although this difference cannot be determined visually or tactilely.
When applying a coating to an uneven surface created in this way, the repair compound will not fill all the grooves. During drying, these microvoids will create excess stress, which will subsequently cause deformation of the coating.
To sand the surface of the bath under the enamel correctly, it is recommended to equip with sandpaper No. 1 and a lot of patience. Work will go much slower, but the bumps will be almost the same size. This will positively affect the drying process of the coating and significantly improve its quality.
All places where there are streaks of rust should be sanded especially carefully. Of course, the ugly spots under the layer of thick enamel or acrylic will be reliably hidden. But the presence of iron oxide residues on the surface will break the microrelief created during the treatment with abrasives.
As a result, there will be places where the probability of cracking the coating is very high. In the presence of strong contamination, the complete removal of old enamel in such places up to the exposure of the metal base is allowed.
At the end of the surface cleaning, another operation must be performed: dismantle the overflow and overflow. The surface that will be exposed as a result must also be cleaned.Here is suitable drill with durex. Processing is carried out until the impurities have disappeared and the surface has acquired the necessary haze.
It is easy to check the quality of the treatment: to hold it over the surface with the nail, it should not slide. Particularly meticulous masters inspect the surface with a LED flashlight and re-clean the places that give shine.
Now you need to remove from the bath the dust accumulated inside, as well as degrease the work surface. At this stage, it will be necessary to restore the drainage strapping and dismantle it again. The following recommendation is required to comply: do not touch the working surface with your hands. Installation / disassembly of the drain is performed using tools (tweezers, pliers, etc.), they are best prepared in advance.
First, the bulk of the dust from the bath is removed with a vacuum cleaner. After that, the surface is wiped with a clean cloth moistened with a solvent until dirt remains on the cloth. Now the strapping of the sinks will have to be restored.
It is necessary to close the drain hole and pour into the bath about 500-1000 ml of active acid-based detergent, for example, “Sanoks”. Alkaline cleaners are not acceptable at this stage. The composition is carefully ground over the surface of the bath, using another new sponge. The bath is rubbed with an acidic cleaner for about an hour and a half.
After that, the bath is filled with water to the edge and kept in this form for another hour and a half. If done correctly, the bath itself warms up noticeably. If its surface feels as if it is barely warm, then the amount of acid cleaner is not enough, you need to pour about one more liter of this product into the water.
Water can only be drained after the work surface has cooled. After that, you need to rinse the bathroom with water again two or three times: take water, wait one and a half hours, drain, etc. If the situation allows, do not interfere, and five times washing.
The quality of the degreasing is checked as follows: wipe the surface with a cloth dipped in solvent, it should remain clean. Then a hose with a shower head is attached to the faucet and the walls of the bath are poured over.If water flows in a layer, not drops, then everything is in order.
Now the surface must be quickly and thoroughly dried with a building dryer. Quickly, because on top of the dry bath can get pollution, and this is unacceptable. In this preparation of the bath for coating can be considered finished.
Epoxy enamel coating
First you need to prepare the composition, i.e. mix base and hardener. In the fine matter of painting a bath enamel, first of all it is necessary to be guided by the instructions attached to the product by the manufacturer. But there are a couple of common nuances that experienced craftsmen consider important.
For example, you should not immediately prepare the entire volume of epoxy enamel, which is contained in the package, because over time, the properties of the composition deteriorate, and the term of its “life” in the finished form is small. An inexperienced master may not have time to use the entire volume in the allotted time.
The quality of the coating will be much higher if you prepare and apply the epoxy enamel in individual portions of approximately 250 ml.Both the base and the hardener must first be divided into separate portions in order to mix them as necessary.
During the preparation of epoxy enamel to the finished mixture is recommended to add dibutyl phthalate. This is a plasticizer that will improve the plastic properties of epoxy enamel. In everyday life, dibutyl phthalate is used to repel mosquitoes, as well as when working with fiberglass compounds.
The amount of the additive should not exceed 5% of the total volume of epoxy enamel. Often, before mixing the composition, the base is recommended to be heated. Experts recommend using a water bath for this.
During painting, touching the surface or enamel with your hands is strongly not recommended. Therefore, you should prepare tweezers in advance. From the brush, which works, can get out the hairs and remain on the surface of the enamel. Remove them immediately and only with tweezers.
Technology staining is as follows: on the brush generously gain more enamel and put it in a continuous stroke from the bottom up. Then the enamel is spread with the same brush to the sides from the first stroke. The next stroke is also done from the bottom to the top.
The distance between the vertical stripes should be such that when the enamel is distributed to the sides, some areas overlap by about half. After the first primer enamel is applied, you need to wait for it to dry, usually about 15-20 minutes.
After that you can apply a second layer. The technology of its application is the same: from the bottom up and grind to the sides. Skilled craftsmen also recommend observing the order of processing individual areas, i.e. start applying the second layer in the same place as the first, and then move in the same direction.
This will ensure the desired drying speed and optimal internal structure of the coating. Approximately a quarter of an hour after the application of epoxy enamel, it is necessary to check the surface for the presence of leaks.They are eliminated by a careful movement of the brush in the upward direction.
Flows in the area of overflow can be left to dry completely. It is more convenient to cut them with a knife later. It should be borne in mind that the total thickness of the coating of the bath will be slightly larger. Therefore, it may be necessary to replace the old gaskets with new ones or in another fitting of the harness.
Complete drying of the surface usually lasts from three days to a week, after which the bathroom can be used normally. Of course, the above information, for example, about the drying time of the coating, must be checked against the instructions prepared for a particular epoxy enamel.
Liquid Acrylic Bath Treatment
Unlike epoxy enamel, liquid acrylic is not divided into portions, but is mixed all at once. The life of the finished substance is about one and a half hours, but this is quite enough for painting the entire surface of the bath with acrylic. It is very important to mix the components correctly, you should not rush.
The plasticizer should not be added to liquid acrylic in any form.It is acceptable to introduce a special dye in the amount of 3-5% of the total volume of the finished composition. The coloring component gives the composition a color cast. With the right dosage, it does not impair the strength of the acrylic coating.
Some experts recommend using a brush or roller for applying the composition, but more often the composition is simply poured onto the prepared surface. With a brush or a trowel, the composition can only be pushed a little, if necessary, for example, completely fill the rounded top of the rim, and without auxiliary tools this does not work.
Before pouring, the overflow drain must be dismantled. Part of the composition can spill out through the drain hole, this is completely normal. To collect excess acrylic under the drain put unnecessary capacity, for example, a cut plastic bottle or a half-liter glass jar.
Begin to pour acrylic from the top of the side. When the jet reaches approximately the middle of the height of the bath, the container with liquid acrylic begins to smoothly move aside until the entire upper part of the rim has been processed. Filling should continue, but now the composition must be poured from the middle of the side to the bottom, thus making another circle around the perimeter of the bath.
After that, the bath is simply left to dry completely. Acrylic will be evenly distributed over its surface and harden, forming a solid surface. Now, from under the drain hole, you need to remove the container with the excess acrylic and restore the drainage overflow strapping. The nodules are neatly cut with a knife.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Practical recommendations for the restoration of bath coating using epoxy enamel are presented in the following video:
Useful information on the use of PlastAll liquid acrylic is contained in this video:
Repairing a bath with epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic cannot be called simple or easy.To get a really reliable result, you should carefully prepare the surface, and then accurately follow the technology of work and the conditions for their implementation.